Recife, capital (the country’s oldest) of the state of Pernambuco in northeastern Brazil was founded by Portuguese conquerors in 1537. During the 16th and 17th centuries, its history was marked by the battles fought by the House of Habsburg an ocean away: when the Crowns of Spain and Portugal united in 1580, the Portuguese overseas territories became part of the map of the all-powerful Philip II, against whom the provinces of Flanders were fighting to achieve their independence. What is now Pernambuco was targeted by Dutch West India Company and subsequently occupied by the Dutch in 1630. The Dutch then founded New Holland with its capital in Recife, which they renamed Mauritsstad.

Under the auspices of Maurice of Nassau, Recife prospered: the city became a tolerant port, where – unlike what was happening in old Europe – Catholics could peacefully coexist with Calvinists and everyone with Jews. As a result, Recife today conserves the first synagogue in the Americas – Kahal Zur Israel – which can still be visited. It also attracted scientists and artists, which led the city to become home to such curious elements as the first astronomical observatory in the Americas and an architectural layout based on bridges and canals designed to resemble the design of Amsterdam, earning it the nickname “the Venice of America”, because it has more bridges than the Italian city itself.

Although the Portuguese reconquered the territories in 1654, in the historic centre of Recife Antigo you can visit vestiges of its Dutch era, such as Forte de São Tiago das Cinco Pontas, an imposing fortress that today houses the Recife City Museum. Other key sites are the Malakoff Tower, today the region’s most important cultural centre, and the Rua do Bom Jesus, one of the city’s best-known landmarks, with its colourful colonial buildings dating back to the 17th and 19th centuries.

Today, Recife Antigo is famous for its nightlife and its artistic importance that have made the historic centre a cultural reference. Starting from enclaves such as Marco Zero, an emblematic square bathed by the Atlantic and the zero point of Pernambuco – from where all the distances of the region were measured in the colonial era – you can find galleries and cultural centres like CAIXA Cultural Recife, part of a namesake network of cultural institutions with locations in all major cities of Brazil. Located in a 1912 building declared a national heritage site, this institution has spaces for exhibitions and workshops, with special attention given to LGTBI expressions and to the African heritage of the area, along with space for events in its large foyer and a theatre with capacity for almost 100 people.

Another epicentre of cultural life in Pernambuco is Paço do Frevo, the main hub dedicated to promoting frevo, a music and dance genre that originated in Recife and was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2012. The most characteristic thing about frevo is its frenetic, almost feverish rhythm, in a dance that blends marching, Brazilian tango, contradanza, polka and even pieces of classical music, resulting in an amazing show by professional dancers that ultimately brings spectators onto the dance floor. Frevo is a characteristic dance of Recife’s Carnival, one of the most special and enjoyable in Brazil, but at the Paço do Frevo museum it is studied, preserved and taught all year round, through concerts, events, exhibitions and parties.

Frevo is the repository of an evident African influence, which has marked, for instance, its rhythms and percussions. This influence is also present in other expressions, such as gastronomy, with a mixture of Indigenous, Portuguese and African heritages. Dishes such as prawn bobó are an example of this, with incredible ingredients such as red palm oil, coconut milk and cassava, along with a colourful sofrito and, of course, prawns. Other specialties in the area have evocative names such as carne-de-sol, of Portuguese heritage, and some of them tell the story of Pernambuco, such as bolo de rolo, a roll cake influenced by the local sugar industry. Don’t miss restaurants like the classic Leite, which – in addition to showcasing local cuisine – is the oldest in all of Brazil. Founded in 1882, personalities such as Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre and Orson Wells enjoyed meals there.

However, what underpins Recife’s life is its beaches. Boa Viagem – an urban beach stretching some seven kilometres – is the most famous. Although swimming beyond the reef is not permitted, the beach is very well known for its atmosphere; the parties held in its sand on New Year’s Eve or during Carnival are legendary. It also boasts an unbeatable nightlife thanks to its beach clubs, hotels and restaurants. Praia do Pina, with turquoise waters and golden sand, is another of the most visited beaches. Further afield, Praia dos Carneiros, considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, is famous for its picturesque scenery, with a chapel in the middle of the sand that is surrounded by palm trees.