Vienna six ways
Vienna is a capital of empresses and great thinkers, a stage for some of the 20th century’s defining events and today one of the most liveable cities in the world. From Freud to Klimt, the extravagant life of Sissi to the social reforms of Red Vienna, we invite you on a getaway featuring six themed stops that immerse you in other times. This autumn, fly from Madrid to Vienna from 13,000 Avios (return flight).
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1 A panoramic view: Tram 1
For newcomers finding their bearings in Vienna, or for those who want one last glimpse before leaving, the tram – known to locals as the Bim – is one of the city’s key routes. The horse-drawn carriages of the 1840s have given way to the world’s most extensive tram network. Line 1 runs along much of the Ringstrasse, Vienna’s most exquisite boulevard, built in the 19th century on the route of the old city wall that once surrounded the historic centre. Viennese trams are a luxury experience. From the leisurely route of Line 1, you can admire landmarks such as the State Opera, the magnificent Imperial Palace – home of Empress Sissi – and its gardens, the Parliament, City Hall with its famous Christmas tree from November, and the Karlskirche. To end your journey, step off at the final stop and explore the Prater, the world’s oldest amusement park.
A typical tram runs past the Vienna State Opera. -
2 The museum: Belvedere Palace
This palace, which is actually three buildings in one, houses one of Austria’s most valuable art collections. In the imposing Baroque Upper Belvedere, you’ll find the most famous masterpiece of Vienna’s artistic heritage: Klimt’s The Kiss. The collection includes 23 more paintings by Klimt, including Judith I, as well as masterpieces by Edvard Munch, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Oskar Kokoschka, Egon Schiele and sculptures by Rodin. Other delights – including a version of the famous Napoleon Crossing the Alps – await visitors throughout the galleries. In front of the palace, the Belvedere Gardens – also in the Baroque style – rank among the most beautiful in European history and provide a refuge from the noise of the city.
Back view of Belvedere Palace at sunset, with part of its Baroque gardens. -
3 A bite: Wiener Schnitzel
The Wiener Schnitzel is Austria’s most famous dish, so influential that even neighbouring countries such as Switzerland, Germany and Hungary have made it their own. One of the best eateries to try the breaded veal cutlet is Meissl & Schadn, located on the Ringstrasse. The legend of this restaurant began in the hotel of the same name in the 19th century, when it earned the title of a ‘Mecca for meat lovers’, attracting Vienna’s finest bourgeoisie, including customers such as Sigmund Freud and Stefan Zweig. Although the hotel was destroyed in 1945, its heir, the restaurant, opened in 2017 to serve traditional schnitzel and other specialities such as tafelspitz (a boiled beef dish).
A waiter serves a schnitzel at Meissl & Schadn. ©Florian Weitzer Hotels and Restaurants. -
4 Different architecture: Karl-Marx-Hof
Vienna is Europe’s leading light when it comes to housing, boasting the most sustainable property plan on the continent. This earned it recognition from The Economist as the world’s most liveable city from 2022 to 2024. The key was discovered a century ago, when the Red Vienna government launched an innovative public housing policy that provided 65,000 homes. One of its crowning glories is Karl-Marx-Hof, an architectural complex stretching over a kilometre long and covering 15 hectares, designed by Karl Ehn and open to exploration through special guided tours. Inside are nearly 1,400 homes, alongside gardens, playgrounds, laundries, nurseries, a doctor’s surgery, a post office, a chemist, two libraries and 25 local shops. The Mayor of Vienna inaugurated the complex on 12 October 1930, declaring, “One day, these stones will speak for us.” Today, these “stones” help keep rental prices stable in the Austrian capital.
In the image, one of the entrances to Karl-Marx-Hof. -
5 A historic stop: Café Central
If Vienna became the world’s most cosmopolitan capital at the start of the 20th century, it was undoubtedly thanks to its café culture. In cafés in the historic centre, with marble tables, newspapers passed from hand to hand and cups of Einspänner, philosophers, artists and revolutionaries changed the world. Café Central – one of the intellectual and political epicentres of 20th-century Europe – awaits you at 14 Herrengasse. It was also known as ‘the chess school’ because of its customers’ love of the game. Here, the positivists of the Vienna Circle gathered to present the world with their scientific methods; revolutionaries such as Trotsky and Stalin crossed paths with future adversaries such as Hitler, who tried to sell his hand-painted postcards while listening to political debates; and writers such as Polgar and Zweig discussed the literary avant-garde. Today, at Café Central, you can still savour the famous apfelstrudel and other pastry delicacies in a film-like setting. Other options include Café Landtmann, opposite the City Hall, which was Freud’s favourite. At Hotel Sacher, you can sample its legendary cake, while Prückel transports you back to the 1950s.
Café Central in Vienna. In the background, two portraits of Franz Joseph I of Austria and Empress Elisabeth (Sissi). ©Café Central at Palais Ferstel, Vienna. -
6 A souvenir: antique markets
Vienna is one of the world’s capitals for markets featuring antiques and second-hand goods. Naschmarkt, the city’s most iconic market for crafts, artworks and antiques, has become an institution. It takes place every Saturday morning, from dawn until two or three in the afternoon, and its stalls offer the perfect mix of private and professional sellers, so the wares change every week. Another of the city’s most popular markets for antiques, art and porcelain is Am Hof, just five minutes from Café Central (it’s open from March to November). From then on, the stalls fill with gingerbread and glühwein as Vienna’s most traditional Christmas market gets under way.
Still life of one of the street markets.